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ALBUMS
Monday, July 19, 2010
Saturday, July 10, 2010
TRADITIONAL DRESS--Uttar Pradesh:
Uttar Pradesh:
Mens wear kurta-pyjamas & dhoti-kurtas. Womens wear sari, salwar suit, lehangas, shararas & gararas.
Traditional Costumes-PUNJAB
Punjab:
Punjab & Haryana are famous for the "phulkari" (flower-work) shawls which is worn with a tight-fitting choli & gaghra. Phulkari forms the traditional costume of rural woman of this region.
For ceremonial occasions, a special kind of phulkari known as a "bagh" (garden) was made, in which the whole of the ground was covered with embroidery. On the birth of a baby, the grandmother, after a ceremony of prayers & distribution of sweets to the baby's aunts, would start to embroider a bagh. It would take several years to complete & was embroidered with special care to be used later at the grandchild's wedding, after which it would be kept as a family treasure.
Punjabi girls & women wear salwar kameez's with bright colored duppattas. Kameez is the shirt or top piece & salwar is the pant or bottom piece.
Mens & boys generally wear loose pants or slacks with a collared shirt or t-shirt. Some will wear the kurta pajama.
Rajasthan:
Rajasthani women wear ankle-length long skirts with narrow waist that gain width like an umbrella at the base. It is called ghaghara. The width & the no. of pleats in the ghaghara symbolize ones prosperity. Kurti or choli acts as top/blouse. The odhani is a cotton cloth of about 3m long & about 2m wide that is tucked in the skirt while the other end is taken over the head & the right
shoulder.
Men's attire
They wear a turban of various colour, an angrakha or achakan as the upper garment & dhoti or pyjama as the lower garment.
Jammu & Kashmir:
For many years Kashmiri men & women have worn the same style of dress. The women wear the pheran, the Kashmiri gown, hemmed with a border & hanging in awkward folds. A muslim womans pheran is knee length, loose & embroidered in front & on the edges, a hindu womans pheran touches her feet. For the sake
of smartness & ease it is tied at the waist with folded material called Ihungi. Hindu costume has head-dress called taranga, which is tied to a hanging bonnet & tapers down to the heels from behind.
Dogras
Inhabiting the hilly tract bounding the mountains of the Kashmir valley & extending to the plains of Punjab, wear long, loose tunics, close fitting chudidhars and dupatta or cap to complete their charming ensemble.
Ladakhis
Punjab & Haryana are famous for the "phulkari" (flower-work) shawls which is worn with a tight-fitting choli & gaghra. Phulkari forms the traditional costume of rural woman of this region.
For ceremonial occasions, a special kind of phulkari known as a "bagh" (garden) was made, in which the whole of the ground was covered with embroidery. On the birth of a baby, the grandmother, after a ceremony of prayers & distribution of sweets to the baby's aunts, would start to embroider a bagh. It would take several years to complete & was embroidered with special care to be used later at the grandchild's wedding, after which it would be kept as a family treasure.
Punjabi girls & women wear salwar kameez's with bright colored duppattas. Kameez is the shirt or top piece & salwar is the pant or bottom piece.
Mens & boys generally wear loose pants or slacks with a collared shirt or t-shirt. Some will wear the kurta pajama.
Rajasthan:
Women's attire
Rajasthani women wear ankle-length long skirts with narrow waist that gain width like an umbrella at the base. It is called ghaghara. The width & the no. of pleats in the ghaghara symbolize ones prosperity. Kurti or choli acts as top/blouse. The odhani is a cotton cloth of about 3m long & about 2m wide that is tucked in the skirt while the other end is taken over the head & the right
shoulder.
Men's attire
They wear a turban of various colour, an angrakha or achakan as the upper garment & dhoti or pyjama as the lower garment.
Jammu & Kashmir:
For many years Kashmiri men & women have worn the same style of dress. The women wear the pheran, the Kashmiri gown, hemmed with a border & hanging in awkward folds. A muslim womans pheran is knee length, loose & embroidered in front & on the edges, a hindu womans pheran touches her feet. For the sake
of smartness & ease it is tied at the waist with folded material called Ihungi. Hindu costume has head-dress called taranga, which is tied to a hanging bonnet & tapers down to the heels from behind.
Dogras
Inhabiting the hilly tract bounding the mountains of the Kashmir valley & extending to the plains of Punjab, wear long, loose tunics, close fitting chudidhars and dupatta or cap to complete their charming ensemble.
Ladakhis
Its a part of Jammu. It is known as "land of the Lamas". Men wear long, grey, woolen gowns fringed with sheep-skin & tied at the waist with girdles of blue colour, multi coloured velvet caps, fringed with black fur earlaps. Women wear colourful clothes. Their special is the turquoise-studded headgear called Perak, is made of red cloth or goat skin.
Lambadi (Banjari) women in festive dress
Lambadi (Banjari) women in festive dress, near Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh, India.
Pavada Davani dress of South India:
This dress is called a PAVADA DAVANI. It is three pieces- a long skirt, a choli blouse and a long 'dupetta' scarf, called a half- sari. Some just call this dress as half-sari. Usually this dress is actually four pieces, as it is modest and proper to wear an underskirt underneath the outer drawstring skirt.
This dress is usually worn in villages in Tamil Nadu, as young girls in cities prefer to wear either Salvaar Kamiz or western clothes. This dress takes an art to wear, like the sari, as the 'dupetta' tied like the top of a sari should not expose the chest from top or bottom. It is customary for girls from age of 13-19 to wear this. I was obviously 'too' old, but I wanted to try it out! I prefer sari over all!
Usually the skirt and choli blouse (also called as 'sari jacket' in Madras) is tailor made. The fabrics, as with salvaar kamiz, are sold in sets for the matching top and bottom. Luckily, my friend and are are the same size, so I could wear her choli! Cholis are tailored to the specific measurements of the girl's chest- almost like a bra. It takes time to get used for us westerners to wear this choli as it feels very tight at first, since it is made from unstretchale cotton, but it grows on us. By the way, the choli's attach (snap or hook) in the front! ;)
Another note- this dress is in North India, but it is known as lengha. There are slight differences, but basically the same dress
This dress is usually worn in villages in Tamil Nadu, as young girls in cities prefer to wear either Salvaar Kamiz or western clothes. This dress takes an art to wear, like the sari, as the 'dupetta' tied like the top of a sari should not expose the chest from top or bottom. It is customary for girls from age of 13-19 to wear this. I was obviously 'too' old, but I wanted to try it out! I prefer sari over all!
Usually the skirt and choli blouse (also called as 'sari jacket' in Madras) is tailor made. The fabrics, as with salvaar kamiz, are sold in sets for the matching top and bottom. Luckily, my friend and are are the same size, so I could wear her choli! Cholis are tailored to the specific measurements of the girl's chest- almost like a bra. It takes time to get used for us westerners to wear this choli as it feels very tight at first, since it is made from unstretchale cotton, but it grows on us. By the way, the choli's attach (snap or hook) in the front! ;)
Another note- this dress is in North India, but it is known as lengha. There are slight differences, but basically the same dress
Salvaar Kamiz dress of All India
This dress is called a Salvaar Kamiz. This is a Hindi word- salvaar means PANT and kamiz means SHIRT or TOP. This dress comes in three pieces- the top, pant, and dupetta (scarf). The dupetta can be worn in several ways- from front to back around both sides of neck, falling on the back, folded in half, folded in pleats, like a sari pallu, worn over one sholder, or over the head to protect from the sun.
There are two terms for this dress, one is Salvaar Kamiz - SK hereafter- and chudidhar. There is a slight difference. The SK has a pant which is loose at the ankles, and looks normal length when not being worn. The pant for the chudidhar is very long and tightens at the ankle with a snap or button. The pant seems very long when it is not worn, and when it is worn, it bunches at the ankles. I had a dress like that, but found the pant very uncomfortable, hence I did not keep it. The kamiz for either variety may or may not have a slit on the side. Now a days, even in Chennai, you can see girls wearing slits on both legs up to waist, semi- transparent pant, deep necklines and transparent dupetta. Some western clothes may not be so revealing! I stick to the less modern styles of SK.
The Salvaar Kamiz even has an art to wearing it properly. One should not let the salvaar blow up in the wind. Also, when sitting, be sure to cover up all legs and not let any 'peeping inside.' This may seem strange for Indians to read, but for westerns in India, I found out the hard way. It is considered very indecent to let people see inside your salvaar into the pant, especially above the knee (though above the knee kamiz' are becoming fashionable). Westerners usually feel since it is a pant underneath a 'shirt' then it is OK, but it is not considered proper behavior.
SK can be purchased ready-made or tailored to your measurements. If it is purchased ready made, be sure to tug a bit on the seams, especially if buying in a bazaar. Sometimes the seams are not so good. If they are not good, you can bargin for a lesser price, and take it to a tailor and spend between Rs40-60 to get it restitched. This will last for up to a year with Indian water condition. ;) If it is purchased stitched, many bazaars have fabric sets for salvaars. Usually these come in pre-packaged sets which can't be changed. You can make your own fabric combinations at some shops.
There are two terms for this dress, one is Salvaar Kamiz - SK hereafter- and chudidhar. There is a slight difference. The SK has a pant which is loose at the ankles, and looks normal length when not being worn. The pant for the chudidhar is very long and tightens at the ankle with a snap or button. The pant seems very long when it is not worn, and when it is worn, it bunches at the ankles. I had a dress like that, but found the pant very uncomfortable, hence I did not keep it. The kamiz for either variety may or may not have a slit on the side. Now a days, even in Chennai, you can see girls wearing slits on both legs up to waist, semi- transparent pant, deep necklines and transparent dupetta. Some western clothes may not be so revealing! I stick to the less modern styles of SK.
The Salvaar Kamiz even has an art to wearing it properly. One should not let the salvaar blow up in the wind. Also, when sitting, be sure to cover up all legs and not let any 'peeping inside.' This may seem strange for Indians to read, but for westerns in India, I found out the hard way. It is considered very indecent to let people see inside your salvaar into the pant, especially above the knee (though above the knee kamiz' are becoming fashionable). Westerners usually feel since it is a pant underneath a 'shirt' then it is OK, but it is not considered proper behavior.
SK can be purchased ready-made or tailored to your measurements. If it is purchased ready made, be sure to tug a bit on the seams, especially if buying in a bazaar. Sometimes the seams are not so good. If they are not good, you can bargin for a lesser price, and take it to a tailor and spend between Rs40-60 to get it restitched. This will last for up to a year with Indian water condition. ;) If it is purchased stitched, many bazaars have fabric sets for salvaars. Usually these come in pre-packaged sets which can't be changed. You can make your own fabric combinations at some shops.
Lovely Lehenga Choli
White lehenga style saree features red and black patch along the border. Sparkled with sequins buttis and red polka dots makes it eye-catching. Saree features black net panels with black sequins stripes and white polka dots along with embroidered godets at the front instead of regular pleats. Comes with matching blouse in red with sequins buttis. A net and georgette saree. Due to various types of lightings & flash used while photo shoot the color shade of the product may vary. The brightest shade seen is the closest color of the fabric.Styles of draping
The most common style is for the sari to be wrapped around the waist, with the loose end of the drape to be worn over the shoulder, baring the stomach.[1] However, the sari can be draped in several different styles, though some styles do require a sari of a particular length or form. The French cultural anthropologist and sari researcher Chantal Boulanger categorized sari drapes in the following families:[11]
* Nivi – styles originally worn in Andhra Pradesh; besides the modern nivi, there is also the kaccha nivi, where the pleats are passed through the legs and tucked into the waist at the back. This allows free movement while covering the legs.
* Bengali and Oriya style.
* Gujarati – this style differs from the nivi only in the manner that the loose end is handled: in this style, the loose end is draped over the right shoulder rather than the left, and is also draped back-to-front rather than the other way around.
* Maharashtrian/Kashta; this drape is very similar to that of the male Maharashtrian dhoti. The center of the sari (held lengthwise) is placed at the center back, the ends are brought forward and tied securely, then the two ends are wrapped around the legs. When worn as a sari, an extra-long cloth is used and the ends are then passed up over the shoulders and the upper body. They are primarily worn by Brahmin women of Maharashtra, Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu.
* Dravidian – sari drapes worn in Tamil Nadu; many feature a pinkosu, or pleated rosette, at the waist.
* Madisaara style – this drape is typical of Brahmin ladies from Tamil Nadu and Kerala
* Kodagu style – this drape is confined to ladies hailing from the Kodagu district of Karnataka. In this style, the pleats are created in the rear, instead of the front. The loose end of the sari is draped back-to-front over the right shoulder, and is pinned to the rest of the sari.
* Gond – sari styles found in many parts of Central India. The cloth is first draped over the left shoulder, then arranged to cover the body.
* Malayali style - the two-piece sari, or Mundum Neryathum, worn in Kerala. Usually made of unbleached cotton and decorated with gold or colored stripes and/or borders. Also the Set-saree, a sort of mundum neryathum.
* Tribal styles – often secured by tying them firmly across the chest, covering the breasts.
The nivi style is today's most popular sari style. (Dongerkerry K.
S. 1959
* Nivi – styles originally worn in Andhra Pradesh; besides the modern nivi, there is also the kaccha nivi, where the pleats are passed through the legs and tucked into the waist at the back. This allows free movement while covering the legs.
* Bengali and Oriya style.
* Gujarati – this style differs from the nivi only in the manner that the loose end is handled: in this style, the loose end is draped over the right shoulder rather than the left, and is also draped back-to-front rather than the other way around.
* Maharashtrian/Kashta; this drape is very similar to that of the male Maharashtrian dhoti. The center of the sari (held lengthwise) is placed at the center back, the ends are brought forward and tied securely, then the two ends are wrapped around the legs. When worn as a sari, an extra-long cloth is used and the ends are then passed up over the shoulders and the upper body. They are primarily worn by Brahmin women of Maharashtra, Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu.
* Dravidian – sari drapes worn in Tamil Nadu; many feature a pinkosu, or pleated rosette, at the waist.
* Madisaara style – this drape is typical of Brahmin ladies from Tamil Nadu and Kerala
* Kodagu style – this drape is confined to ladies hailing from the Kodagu district of Karnataka. In this style, the pleats are created in the rear, instead of the front. The loose end of the sari is draped back-to-front over the right shoulder, and is pinned to the rest of the sari.
* Gond – sari styles found in many parts of Central India. The cloth is first draped over the left shoulder, then arranged to cover the body.
* Malayali style - the two-piece sari, or Mundum Neryathum, worn in Kerala. Usually made of unbleached cotton and decorated with gold or colored stripes and/or borders. Also the Set-saree, a sort of mundum neryathum.
* Tribal styles – often secured by tying them firmly across the chest, covering the breasts.
The nivi style is today's most popular sari style. (Dongerkerry K.
S. 1959INDIAN SARI
A sari or saree (Bengali: শাড়ি saṛi, Hindi: साड़ी sāṛī, Kannada: ಸೀರೆ sīra, Malayalam: സാരി sāri, Nepali: सरि sari, Tamil: புடவை puṭavai, Telugu: చీర cīra, Urdu: ساڑى sāṛī) is a strip of unstitched cloth, ranging from four to nine metres in length that is draped over the body in various styles.[1] It is popular in India, Nepal, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Bhutan, Burma, and Malaysia. The most common style is for the sari to be wrapped around the waist, with one end then draped over the shoulder baring the midriff.[1]
The sari is usually worn over a petticoat (लहंगा lahaṅgā or "lehenga" in the north, pavada/pavadai in the south, chaniyo in the west, and shaya in eastern India), with a blouse known as a choli or ravika forming the upper garment. The choli has short sleeves and a low neck and is usually cropped, and as such is particularly well-suited for wear in the sultry South Asian summers. Cholis may be backless or of a halter neck style. These are usually more dressy with plenty of embellishments such as mirrors or embroidery, and may be worn on special occasions. Women in the armed forces, when wearing a sari uniform, don a short-sleeved shirt tucked in at the waist. The sari developed as a garment of its own in both South and North India at around the same time, and is in popular culture an epitome of Indian culture.[
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